In Februray 2024 I went on a seven-week backpacking adventure through the vibrant landscapes of Colombia. My journey was filled with unforgettable highs, but it also had its share of challenges. One thing that stood out was the frustrating scarcity of up-to-date information online, making navigating this beautiful country a bit tricky at times. For this reason I made some notes during my travel which I’ll drop here.
General
- In touristy areas, it’s safe, but you should still look after your stuff (no dar Papaya, as Colombians say).
- 1$ ~1€ ~ 4200 pesos (2024).
- Prices are often negotiable. Always ask for the price before consuming or taking a taxi.
- For taxis: if you want to use public services, you can look up a reasonable price on Uber or InDriver first. You can also use that as a strategy for negotiating. “Can you give me a better price?”
- Points of view are called Mirador in Spanish, and there are many in Colombia; just ask the locals.
- The people at the hotel or hostel receptions know a lot; make use of them.
- In some places, tap water is drinkable, for example, Medellín, Guatapé. In Cartagena, I boiled the water to be sure and mixed in some flavor (you can find that at every supermarket here) to hide the chlorine.
- By the way, water prices can vary vastly. 1L of water might cost 1000 in a supermarket or 8000 in touristy areas.
- Tip: Get a bottle with a built-in filter. It’s about 20 euros for a bottle and much less for the filters, which are usable for 200 liters. That way, you save a lot of money and carrying.
- Get a local SIM card. Popular mobile carriers are Claro Movistar and Tigo. Claro had the best coverage in our experience. It’s best to compare a few shops and select the best price or negotiate. 30 days, 30GB internet should be around 21000 COP plus the SIM card, if it’s much more, negotiate.
- Get mosquito repellent (optimally with 50% DEET!) you will need it in Minca, Tayrona,… for example.
- In Santa Marta, many Colombians are traveling; book in advance in these days, else everything might be full.
Packing List
- Apps: Uber, InDrive, Hostelworld, Booking, Translator (dict.cc supports offline), Currency calculator, Airbnb, Redbus, Maps.me or Organic Maps.
- Stuff for any weather.
- If you use Booking.con you can get gold level real quick and get some extras.
- Check24 has a credit card which will get you 10 percent on every booking.
- When traveling to or from colombia you need to fill the Check Mig form in advance.
- Medicine emergency set:
- Charcoal tablets – diarrhea, stomach ache.
- Tannacomp – diarrhea.
- Electrolytes – diarrhea.
- Loperamide – heavy diarrhea, has heavy side effects.
- Atovaquone/proguanil – Malaria medication.
- Ibuprofen – pain, anti-inflammatory, fever.
- Paracetamol – pain, fever.
- Travel sickness pills.
- Hydrocortisone cream – itching bites.
- Bug spray (Look for DEET >= 25%, In Germany you can get 50%, with that, we did not get a single bite).
- Rhino Pront – Cold.
Buses and Public Transportation
- Most buses are not fully booked in advance. You might be fine just going to the terminal and booking your bus there. Buses can be booked in advance using Redbus or Busbud. Note that this is not yet your ticket; you still need to go to the terminal and get your ticket there. Often you also get different places and say if you arrive early they will offer you to take an earlier bus. Think of Redbus and Busbud more like a “pay in advance” service. I’m not even sure if the place is really reserved or if you might need to take a different bus if the bus is already full.
- Buses can take much longer than advertised.
- Most local transportation buses do not have bus stops. You have to know where the bus passes and stop it. Same to get out: You tell the driver to please stop “Para, por favor” or let you out at the next intersection or possibility “En la próxima por favor”; some buses also have a button at the door. Often you can also say where you want to go and the driver stops there. However, they might not remember. By the way, to get to smaller towns you can also ask at express buses. Moovit had surprisingly many bus routes, Google Maps only a few important ones. Safety on buses can vary. We felt very safe on express buses, the buses of the metro stations in Medellín (have the word Metro written on their Windshield), the bus from Santa Marta over Mamatoco, Tayrona to Palomino (white, green, locals will know and help you).
- Some buses do not have air conditioning, and some have it on full blast. Keep a pullover with you. Same in hostels, by the way.
- If you want/have to use taxis, you can look up reasonable prices on Uber or InDriver or ask locals. Taxi drivers like to quote tourist prices. And remember, always ask before getting in.
Safety
- Safety varies vastly in Colombia. You should talk to the people before wandering around on your own, especially if you are a woman and stick out.
- Don’t use dating apps. You might run into a scam.
- Some examples:
- Very safe: Areas that depend on tourism like Comuna 13 in Medellín, Smaller but very touristy towns like Guatapé, Minca.
- Safe: Poblado in Medellín, Most of Getsemani, Centro in, Metro in Medellín.
- Unsafe: Non-touristy areas in cities, parts of Centro in Medellín.
- Safe places can get sketchy by night. Ask around to be sure! For Colombians, it’s totally normal to not go out after sunset.
Getting Money/Paying
- Only ATMs of Bancolombia and Banco Agrario worked reliably for us. Luckily, you can find one of those in nearly every city and even town.
- Minca: No ATM here, but a trustworthy exchange office with a low fee.
- Never exchange money on the street.
- Most places accept credit cards. However, never use it on the street. The authorities can only help you if the guy that scammed you is at the same place the next day. Tip: There are services like Revolut which provide “prepaid”/debit cards.
Getting Food
- Cheap lunch: Menú del Día or Comida Corriente (in Cartagena) full meal for around 15-20k including a small drink. Mostly it’s some beans, rice, egg, salad, avocado and some “Proteína” which is some sort of meat. We often asked for a vegetarian option, and they were happy to help us out.
- In some local markets, you can get vegetables and fruits for very cheap.
- Note most hostels here do not have spices, nor oil or vinegar.
- Street food is great in Colombia. (arepas, empanadas,…) We had no problem eating street food. However, we only ate food that was heated in some way or fruits. Be careful if the booth looks shady or if they might have used tap water for ice cubes or to clean salad.
- I had no problem with ice cubes in restaurants.
Routes
- Clockwise or counterclockwise: Bogota, Villa de Leyva, San Gil, Bucaramanga, Santa Marta (from there to Tayrona, Minka, Palomino, La Guajira), Barranquilla, Cartagena, Isla del Rosario, Medellin, and the Coffee Region (Jardin, Salento, Guatape), Cali, Tatacoa Desert, back to Bogota, then fly to Leticia (Amazon Rainforest).
- With three mountains and long bus rides between destinations, consider flying for efficiency.
Cities
Bogota
- You can take a walking tour and visit Monserrate.
- Bogota serves as a transportation hub with many buses originating here, as well as most domestic flights.
- Situated at 2600m above sea level, some people may experience altitude sickness in the first few days, such as difficulty breathing.
Cartagena
- Stay in Getsemani or Centro.
- Use Uber or Indriver (for more options) within the city.
- Taxis from the airport should be safe to use. Inside the airport, there’s a computer terminal where you can enter your destination and receive a printed slip with the price to give to the driver, ensuring a fair rate.
Santa Marta
- Uber doesn’t operate here, but taxis are reliable as they charge according to a tariff. To be certain, you can ask your accommodation to arrange a taxi or use Indriver, which still operates.
- Recommended hostel: Viajero offers a nice, relaxed atmosphere, though it might get crowded in high season. Additionally, they offer free water refills at the bars.
- The beach here is not particularly noteworthy; instead, head to Tayrona.
Tayrona
- Consider staying at least one night.
- Tequemdaya camping appears to be the best option, offering tents and hammocks.
- Buses from Santa Marta to Tayrona and onward to Palomino are available. If heading to Minka, instruct the driver: “Deja me en la oficina de los colectivos a Minca.”
- You can leave luggage at the entrance or hostel.
- There’s a hostel near the entrance called Moon Wind Hostel.
Minka
- “Colectivos” provide connections.
- Mamatoco serves as a hub for Santa Marta. From there, you can easily reach various destinations such as Mercado Publico, Tayrona, Palomino, Minca via collectivo, or by taxi.
- Recommended hostel: Sol de Minca is excellent and has a nice charme; also try their vegetarian hamburger. Directions: Follow the signs to Jungle Joe, then descend the stairs to avoid walking on the road. Jungle Joe is also highly recommended.
- Hiking recommendations include Finka and Mirador 360. Additionally, explore waterfalls like Oido del Mundo and Marinka. Casa Loma offers a great spot to catch the sunset while enjoying a beer.
- Many excellent restaurants and cafes are available, with Caficosta highly recommended.
Medellin
- At most metro stations, you can obtain the metro card (Cívica) for around 10000 pesos.
- Green buses from nearly every metro station connect to other parts of the Comuna. Moovit provides route information, but schedules are unreliable as buses depart when full, accepting payment via metro card or cash.
- A shuttle bus connects the north and south bus terminals for 3000 pesos per person, with the north terminal also connected to the metro.
- The airport is located outside the city; a shuttle bus to Exposiciones metro station costs around 16000 pesos per person and can be found to the right upon exiting the airport.
- El Poblado is often recommended for a safe stay.
- Large party hostels include Los Patios and Viajero. For a smaller hostel, consider Yolo.
- Enjoy a view from above by riding the metro cable, such as from Saint Javier station in Comuna 13.
- Take a tour through El Centro with “Real City tours” or through Comuna 13 with Zippy tours, both led by guides who have lived in those neighborhoods.
- Alambique is highly recommended for dining, though expect a wait or consider making a reservation.
- For locally sourced fruits and vegetables without street vendor hassle, visit a shop near San Javier metro station in Comuna 13.
Guatapé
- Take a bus from Medellín’s Terminal del Norte.
- Use the same bus to reach La Piedra (the Rock) and return or opt for a tuk-tuk ride for convenience.
- Within the city, tuk-tuks are available for transportation.
- Recommended hostel: Casa Kayam can be enjoyable if the right crowd is present.
- Hike to the waterfall, following directions on Osmand. Visit Gaia (vegetarian) or Namasté (vegan, balcony seating) for dining options.
Jardín
- Catch a bus from Medellín’s Terminal del Sur, preferably using Rápido Ochoa for comfortable buses with ample legroom and tagged bags for security.
- Hike to Cueva del Esplendor; ask a tuk-tuk to take you to El Alto de la Brisa and inquire about passing Alto de Las Flores for a scenic view. The hike to the reserve’s entrance takes about an hour, costing 20k pesos. A guide will lead you to the cave, and the return trip to Jardín passes through Café Jardín.
- Hostel options include Charco Corazón, situated near a waterfall (Cascada del Amor) and the popular swimming spot Charco Corazón. La Tángara, hosted by Natalia and her dog Amber, is also recommended and featured in various blogs.
- Coffee Tour at Finca MonteSer: the finca tries to grow their coffee using a permaculture and without the use of chemicals. The tour is good but you need to understand some Spanish. They can also organize a translator, however the translation was a not that great.
- Buses are available to Medellín (purchased at Rápido Ochoa), Río Sucio (purchased at Restaurant La Puerta, departing at 8 am for around 30k pesos), and Manizales (purchased at Restaurant La Puerta, departing at 6:25 am for 65k pesos). From Río Sucio, connections to other destinations like Pereira and Salento are possible, albeit via a cold, unpaved road, so prepare accordingly.
Filandia
- Travel from Jardín via bus to Riosucio (open bus, purchased at Restaurant La Puerta for around 30k pesos), then to Pereira (Flotta Occidental, 30k pesos), and finally to Filandia (Expresso Alcala). This journey takes a day in total.
- Filandia offers little to see, but it can be extremely busy, particularly during the Samaná Santos festivities.
Salento
- Buses connect Salento to Rio Sucio, Armenia, Pereira, and Medellín, while jeeps are available from Filandia for 8k pesos.
- Take a jeep to Valle de Cocora for 5k pesos. Opt for a counterclockwise hike for a shorter steep ascent and longer descent, saving the main viewpoints for the end. The trail starts directly across from where the jeeps are parked. Admission costs 20k pesos, with an additional 6k pesos for entry into private properties along the path.
Tatacoa
- Reach Villavieja by bus from Neiva (10 km) or ask the driver to drop you at Aipe; from there, it’s a 30-minute walk or mototaxi to the ferry (5 km).
- There are Tuk Tuks to the desert (40k).
- Casa Campo de los Cactus is a hostel in the desert, 30 minutes from the red desert by walking, 10 minutes to the observatory, and 90 minutes to the Grey desert.
- If you want to depart from Aipe towards Bogotá, you have to go to the restaurant right next to Spa El Rancho de Sancocho, where they sell the tickets, and the buses stop. Not to the terminal de transporte, which only has buses to Neiva.
- There is a 90-120 minute trail in the red desert and a 40-minute trail in the Grey desert. In both cases, using GPS helps to find the path because it isn’t clearly marked.
Leticia
- By far my favorite.
- Arrive by air from Bogotá or by boat from Iquitos (Peru). The ship takes several days, and there is no real schedule. The conditions are, let’s say, not for everybody.
- Bring an airy shirt with long sleeves and long pants. Ironically, it is quite hard to find this stuff in Leticia.
- If you go to the Parque Santander at sunset you’ll see thousands of birds flying around the trees.
- Tours: Casa de las Palmas, Amazon Experience.
